Best solution approach for deeper skin tones — glow without going orange or ashy?

[Amelia T]

I’m getting more bookings from clients with naturally deeper skin (roughly Fitzpatrick IV–V) who want a glow and evening-out rather than going much darker. My usual medium-dark looks a bit orange on some and flat/ashy on others.

Do you switch to a different guide colour, a lower DHA, or just a lighter pass?

[David Kay]

For deeper skin the goal is usually tone and radiance rather than depth, so a lower-to-mid DHA with the right guide colour tends to beat a dark liquid. Warmer, bronze or rose-brown guides usually sit better than very green/violet ones, which can read ashy. Orange often means too much DHA for that skin, not the wrong technique.

A single light, even pass with a little extra on areas they want evened out (shins, arms) is often plenty. Ask what they want to see on day two — a sheen, evened-out patches, or real extra depth — and choose from that.

Most ranges, Suntana included, have a medium that works well here; patch-test the first time and note the result on their card so the next booking is repeatable.

[Author]

Posts